Crap it's hot!

It's 105 degrees today so what better day to lower the under hood temp with some header wrap. Blue is a little crazy looking but it was free thanks to my friend Bryan. And you can also see the boost controller is in place.



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Boost Controller

In keeping with my homemade cheapo crap. I put together this boost controller for about $12. It's a pressure relief valve from Grainger with barb jammed in and JB Welded in place. The idea was stolen from a friend of mine who runs one on a 5 second blow-through Mustang...so, it works.



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Video of the pass...

Thanks to my friend John for getting the video on the trucks first pass...

8.66 @ 82.78mph!!

I drove the truck to Dunn-Benson dragstrip tonight...a 33 mile drive. Made a single pass...went 8.66 with a lazy 2.09 60'....so given that my goal was to go 8.30's...this was an awesome first pass! Then got back in it and drove it 33 miles back home. (ignore the 2.09 reaction time...I forgot to turn the data logger on and did it with the tree coming down - doh!)


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This seems a little shifty...

The shifts under power were a little "slushy"...so today I installed a B&M shift kit...now the 1-2 shift feels like you been hit in the ass with a baseball bat!


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I have to take a leak

Fixed several exhaust leaks (yes more) and switched to aluminum collector gaskets...and it picked up almost 3lbs of boost!

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Sunday drive.

On 275 M/T Drag Radials...boost works.


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I'm a street car!

Tagged, inspected, insured and on the streets...bitches!





...I've since fixed some exhaust leaks and picked up a ton of power...it makes a couple more pounds of boost on the spring so now puts down about 9 lbs....and sounds bad-ass whistles like crazy now. I threw the laptop in it the other day and the A/F is around 11.3 at WOT...I'm pulling 1.5 degrees per lb so I think it's still pretty safe and has more left in it. I also went back to a standard 6.5 power valve...with jetting at 69/78 and 35 squirters in both front and back. No bog but I think there is still power to be found out of boost...so more to come.



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What? I can't hear you...your all muffled.

Gonna try and get a tag...so I added a muffler.



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Did I mention...

That while installing the meth kit a box arrived from Summit with another larger set of squirters. I dropped a 42 in the secondary and was a bit much...a little boggy...so I left it in and changed to a white accelerator pump cam and bingo. It now hits pretty hard from a dead stop. Exhibit A:



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Wired

I got my adjustable Hobbs switch today. Got it wired up and mounted. But of course, I am missing the proverbial $.15 part...I didn't have the vacuum tee to plumb the boost to it but I did put some air to the switch and the whole system does work...so road test tomorrow.









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Doing some meth

Today I started installing my homemade water/meth injection system. The boost Hobbs switch had to be ordered so it's not fully functional but I got the pump, tank, injector,and relay installed so I was able to see it work.

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Finally getting there

After 2 years of jerking around I'm finally getting to a point of feeling good about this thing. I ordered some bigger squirters for the carb and after some accelerator pump cam changes got rid of the lean bog at the initial hit...it now goes straight to tire spin...which makes it go straight to boost...which makes it go to more tire spin...which makes it go to more boost...you get the idea.

I also installed a real throttle return spring setup instead of the kludged spring to coat hanger setup.

Now if I only had a way to get it to the track....

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7lbs of boost

A short clip of the truck making some boost..

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Whistle me a tune

Well still trying to get the tune right on this thing...I had a big lean spot right at the hit. I swapped the accelerator pump cams out and took care of most if it...I think I'm still gonna have to go up a size in squirters...but getting there.


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MSD - Missing Serviceable Diagrams

So, I recently purchased a second MSD Boost Timing Master because I couldn't get the first to work and since it was used from eBay I just assumed it was bad. So, today I hooked up number two...same thing! It would fire but not run...so I was now suspecting a wiring issue so after much googling I stumbled upon a post for a different MSD box. HEI's that use the 4-pin module must remove the module and wire the magnetic pickup into the MSD box! Mutha-F! Hey MSD this might be something helpful to include in your instructions...or the special addendum you put out specifically for the 5462 when used with an HEI. Anyway, I went back out removed the module wired in to the green/violet of the MSD...turned the key and ta-da! A working Boost box.


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Test-o-matic

I needed a way to test my homemade boost referenced power valve...so I built the "power valve test-o-matic" it has a tire valve, a nipple to attach to the boost gauge. The power valve screws in the bottom. Fill it with some water attach a bike pump and boost gauge and ta-da...I can see at what psi the valve opens...when the water starts passing through the valve.

Pullin' hard

Well I did some mucking with the truck the other day trying to get rid of the sluggishness down low...so I added some more timing to the mix and it was what the doctor ordered. Is is pretty good down low and pulls hard under boost. Now I need to put the boost ref PV back in and hook up the laptop and see where the A/F is - Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Mr Boost can I use you as a reference?

Well the truck is running but really sluggish down low...I'm suspecting that the power valve is opening at WOT and because of the drilled PVCR's is is too rich till boost comes in. So, I've decided to try my hand at a boost referenced power valve. So here's how it's done: First since I don't have a vice...that's right I'm building this truck without a vice because that would require I have a workbench which I also don't have so no vice...but I digress. Since I don't have a vice I made a "power valve holder" I took a 2x4 drilled and tapped it to hold a power valve. I screwed in the valve and with a die-grinder ground the backside flat till you can do the seam.


Stuck a screwdriver in the hole and popped out the retainer.


I ground the brass in the center of the diaphragm smooth and with punch...or in my case a nail as I didn't have a punch that small... Drove the brass center loose from the diaphragm allowing the entire valve to come apart.


The diaphragm and retainer and all that goop can be thrown away. Next I heated (with a propane torch) the brass center to break loose the factory lock-tight and unscrewed the spring retainer.


Next I threaded the other end of the brass center piece with a 10-32 die. Then turned my attention to the body (sorry no pic) but next is to take a 3/8" drill bit and carefully drill down to the 4 prongs are in the body creating a spot for the brass center section to seat. I then took the brass center and put it in a drill (old treads being clamped) and put some toothpaste (Crest wintergreen ice) on the new seat created by the drill bit and the brass center. Using the drill "seated" it in the body. After washing it made sure that the brass center would seal by blowing through it and lightly holding the center in place. No air = no leaks. I then got a nickel (yes, 5 cents) which fits perfectly on the back. You then trim the old treads a bit at a time till you get a nice opening of the valve but no binding of the spring. Once your happy with the opening distance take some JB Weld and seal the nickel to the back


So that end end of the day here's what I have done. Instead of vacuum pulling on the diaphragm to hold the valve closed... Now the spring is holding it closed and the boost pressure in the float bowl will push it open...at least that's the way it "should" work.


...now to install it and see what happens...I might have to take a couple of shots with different valves to get the right spring to open at the right boost...but that's half the fun is trying stuff till it works. - Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Let me relay something to you...

I got a lot done yesterday...I got the passenger seat mounted, rewired the fan and fuel pump correctly, using fuses, relays and power directly off the starter lead.


I also got the right bracket for the shifter so the Hurst is installed and working.


So I removed all the linkage and column shift as well. Lastly I ran a new ground and power for the O2 sensor because I was getting some strange readings and I think it was due to interference. - Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone