Mr Boost can I use you as a reference?

Well the truck is running but really sluggish down low...I'm suspecting that the power valve is opening at WOT and because of the drilled PVCR's is is too rich till boost comes in. So, I've decided to try my hand at a boost referenced power valve. So here's how it's done: First since I don't have a vice...that's right I'm building this truck without a vice because that would require I have a workbench which I also don't have so no vice...but I digress. Since I don't have a vice I made a "power valve holder" I took a 2x4 drilled and tapped it to hold a power valve. I screwed in the valve and with a die-grinder ground the backside flat till you can do the seam.


Stuck a screwdriver in the hole and popped out the retainer.


I ground the brass in the center of the diaphragm smooth and with punch...or in my case a nail as I didn't have a punch that small... Drove the brass center loose from the diaphragm allowing the entire valve to come apart.


The diaphragm and retainer and all that goop can be thrown away. Next I heated (with a propane torch) the brass center to break loose the factory lock-tight and unscrewed the spring retainer.


Next I threaded the other end of the brass center piece with a 10-32 die. Then turned my attention to the body (sorry no pic) but next is to take a 3/8" drill bit and carefully drill down to the 4 prongs are in the body creating a spot for the brass center section to seat. I then took the brass center and put it in a drill (old treads being clamped) and put some toothpaste (Crest wintergreen ice) on the new seat created by the drill bit and the brass center. Using the drill "seated" it in the body. After washing it made sure that the brass center would seal by blowing through it and lightly holding the center in place. No air = no leaks. I then got a nickel (yes, 5 cents) which fits perfectly on the back. You then trim the old treads a bit at a time till you get a nice opening of the valve but no binding of the spring. Once your happy with the opening distance take some JB Weld and seal the nickel to the back


So that end end of the day here's what I have done. Instead of vacuum pulling on the diaphragm to hold the valve closed... Now the spring is holding it closed and the boost pressure in the float bowl will push it open...at least that's the way it "should" work.


...now to install it and see what happens...I might have to take a couple of shots with different valves to get the right spring to open at the right boost...but that's half the fun is trying stuff till it works. - Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Let me relay something to you...

I got a lot done yesterday...I got the passenger seat mounted, rewired the fan and fuel pump correctly, using fuses, relays and power directly off the starter lead.


I also got the right bracket for the shifter so the Hurst is installed and working.


So I removed all the linkage and column shift as well. Lastly I ran a new ground and power for the O2 sensor because I was getting some strange readings and I think it was due to interference. - Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Such a waste...gate

I finally got the wastegate line plumbed...I didn't worry too much about this till I boosted it the other day...the boost gauge hit 12psi and blew the intake tube off...i thought, ok time to make the wastegate actually work.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Major Tom to ground control...

I have been battling a starting problem...kept thinking it was battery or starter...but turned out to be insufficient ground from the block to the frame... I ran a battery cable from the motor to the frame...fixed.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Something is shifty...

I reinstalled the shifter today. I had it mounted before with the bench seat but was not right since I added the racing seats. However, when I went to hook up the trans side I discovered I have the wrong cable bracket...hello, Summit....


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone