Finally getting there

After 2 years of jerking around I'm finally getting to a point of feeling good about this thing. I ordered some bigger squirters for the carb and after some accelerator pump cam changes got rid of the lean bog at the initial hit...it now goes straight to tire spin...which makes it go straight to boost...which makes it go to more tire spin...which makes it go to more boost...you get the idea.

I also installed a real throttle return spring setup instead of the kludged spring to coat hanger setup.

Now if I only had a way to get it to the track....

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7lbs of boost

A short clip of the truck making some boost..

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Whistle me a tune

Well still trying to get the tune right on this thing...I had a big lean spot right at the hit. I swapped the accelerator pump cams out and took care of most if it...I think I'm still gonna have to go up a size in squirters...but getting there.


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MSD - Missing Serviceable Diagrams

So, I recently purchased a second MSD Boost Timing Master because I couldn't get the first to work and since it was used from eBay I just assumed it was bad. So, today I hooked up number two...same thing! It would fire but not run...so I was now suspecting a wiring issue so after much googling I stumbled upon a post for a different MSD box. HEI's that use the 4-pin module must remove the module and wire the magnetic pickup into the MSD box! Mutha-F! Hey MSD this might be something helpful to include in your instructions...or the special addendum you put out specifically for the 5462 when used with an HEI. Anyway, I went back out removed the module wired in to the green/violet of the MSD...turned the key and ta-da! A working Boost box.


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Test-o-matic

I needed a way to test my homemade boost referenced power valve...so I built the "power valve test-o-matic" it has a tire valve, a nipple to attach to the boost gauge. The power valve screws in the bottom. Fill it with some water attach a bike pump and boost gauge and ta-da...I can see at what psi the valve opens...when the water starts passing through the valve.

Pullin' hard

Well I did some mucking with the truck the other day trying to get rid of the sluggishness down low...so I added some more timing to the mix and it was what the doctor ordered. Is is pretty good down low and pulls hard under boost. Now I need to put the boost ref PV back in and hook up the laptop and see where the A/F is - Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Mr Boost can I use you as a reference?

Well the truck is running but really sluggish down low...I'm suspecting that the power valve is opening at WOT and because of the drilled PVCR's is is too rich till boost comes in. So, I've decided to try my hand at a boost referenced power valve. So here's how it's done: First since I don't have a vice...that's right I'm building this truck without a vice because that would require I have a workbench which I also don't have so no vice...but I digress. Since I don't have a vice I made a "power valve holder" I took a 2x4 drilled and tapped it to hold a power valve. I screwed in the valve and with a die-grinder ground the backside flat till you can do the seam.


Stuck a screwdriver in the hole and popped out the retainer.


I ground the brass in the center of the diaphragm smooth and with punch...or in my case a nail as I didn't have a punch that small... Drove the brass center loose from the diaphragm allowing the entire valve to come apart.


The diaphragm and retainer and all that goop can be thrown away. Next I heated (with a propane torch) the brass center to break loose the factory lock-tight and unscrewed the spring retainer.


Next I threaded the other end of the brass center piece with a 10-32 die. Then turned my attention to the body (sorry no pic) but next is to take a 3/8" drill bit and carefully drill down to the 4 prongs are in the body creating a spot for the brass center section to seat. I then took the brass center and put it in a drill (old treads being clamped) and put some toothpaste (Crest wintergreen ice) on the new seat created by the drill bit and the brass center. Using the drill "seated" it in the body. After washing it made sure that the brass center would seal by blowing through it and lightly holding the center in place. No air = no leaks. I then got a nickel (yes, 5 cents) which fits perfectly on the back. You then trim the old treads a bit at a time till you get a nice opening of the valve but no binding of the spring. Once your happy with the opening distance take some JB Weld and seal the nickel to the back


So that end end of the day here's what I have done. Instead of vacuum pulling on the diaphragm to hold the valve closed... Now the spring is holding it closed and the boost pressure in the float bowl will push it open...at least that's the way it "should" work.


...now to install it and see what happens...I might have to take a couple of shots with different valves to get the right spring to open at the right boost...but that's half the fun is trying stuff till it works. - Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Let me relay something to you...

I got a lot done yesterday...I got the passenger seat mounted, rewired the fan and fuel pump correctly, using fuses, relays and power directly off the starter lead.


I also got the right bracket for the shifter so the Hurst is installed and working.


So I removed all the linkage and column shift as well. Lastly I ran a new ground and power for the O2 sensor because I was getting some strange readings and I think it was due to interference. - Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Such a waste...gate

I finally got the wastegate line plumbed...I didn't worry too much about this till I boosted it the other day...the boost gauge hit 12psi and blew the intake tube off...i thought, ok time to make the wastegate actually work.


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Major Tom to ground control...

I have been battling a starting problem...kept thinking it was battery or starter...but turned out to be insufficient ground from the block to the frame... I ran a battery cable from the motor to the frame...fixed.


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Something is shifty...

I reinstalled the shifter today. I had it mounted before with the bench seat but was not right since I added the racing seats. However, when I went to hook up the trans side I discovered I have the wrong cable bracket...hello, Summit....


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Data Logging

Well, I installed the Innovate LC-1 O2 sensor and data logger today. It allows data logging to a laptop for tuning...right now it just logs air/fuel ratio but can (and will ) log other data such as rpm, boost, timing etc....Fancy.


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This fan sucks (or blows)

Now that the fire has been relit...I went out tonight and wired up the fan and fixed a fuel fitting that was leaking on the top of the regulator (that feeds the gauge)...progress my friends...progress.


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Fuel cell brackets

Summit had sent me the wrong fuel cell brackets a while ago...so I went to home depot and bought some aluminum strips and made some.

Back in the saddle.

Well after a long winter hiatus...I'm finally back on the truck. Last fall the last time I touched it it had popped a hole in the radiator and wouldn't run worth a crap...I was frustrated and unmotivated. Well, I got the itch to get this thing going again. I was trying to get it running good enough to get it to Grill 57 for their monthly car show. (because this thing is a show car) So a couple of weekends ago I found a guy in craigslist parting one out. So I got the radiator out of it. Cooling system back in order. So I put the battery out of the wagoneer in it and cranked it. Still ran like crap...no idle. So I mucked with and mucked with it...I could keep it running by hitting the accelerator pump so I was sure it was not getting fuel at idle. Started blocking off vacuum lines suspecting a leak...still wouldn't idle.

So, I didn't get it running before the car show. I went up there and met my friend Ron who had a super clean big block Chevelle there. After the show I went to Harbor Freight and bought a battery charger...since I had killed the battery running the electric fuel pump while messing with it so now had two dead batteries.

Got home and charged the battery and got looking at it some more. I pulled the front bowl and metering block to make sure there was no trash in the idle circuit. All good. I went back to hunting my vacuum leak as I was sure that's what it was...felt behind the carb checking that the line for brake boost was on...and found it...not the brake boost line but the cap for the large vacuum port on the back of the carb was gone. Last I tried to get the MSD setup it had backfired and must have blow the cap off. New cap installed...ta-da! We have idle. So, I'm back to having a running driving truck...let the tuning begin.